Carissa and Bethany at Teahupo’o

 

I heard a voice outside calling my name, and popped up to see Raimana and Tim and Eric in the familiar orange poti marara. “How’s it going? Are you safe? Everything okay?” Raimana asked.

I filled them in briefly on the boatyard complications and promised to see them in the lineup in the coming days…

The next morning the swell had come up… a LOT. I watched from the channel to for a while. The sea seemed extra full—lots of water moving and churning with a storm bump from the night before. The overcast sky made the chopped faces of the monsters look even meaner than usual. Then out came Raimana on a jet ski, Carissa Moore and Bethany Hamilton alongside. It was a bit too much for either of them to paddle, so they took turns getting towed in on the ski. Carissa was doing ‘step-offs’, where she actually jumped right off the racing ski into the face of the wave then standing up on the board. Bethany had to use the rope because of the fact that she only has one arm!? Most people know the harrowing saga of her shark attack on Kauai. To see the girls out there pushing themselves in those heavy waves filled me with joy. I was witnessing the new frontier of women’s surfing. I was proud of how far we’d come, and excited about where it’s going…

The next day was a bit smaller and more in control. I waited for the morning pack of 40 or so to dwindle before giving it a go. Bethany was out again–charging the sets, paddling in without fear. Having been absent from the ‘beast’ for a while, I was feeling pretty nervous. There was still a big, freak set every now and then that caught everyone inside. There I was with two arms and totally scared. Bethany was amazing! I had no idea how good she really was. I caught a few and felt more comfortable, but Bethany’s courage overwhelmed me.

It had been a long time since something had inspired me like she did that day. Not for a second did she seem to let having one arm slow her down–emanating pure determination and commitment. It reminded me that when someone wants something badly enough… when there are no mental blocks within yourself to getting where you want to go… when you believe so strongly in yourself that there is absolutely no question…almost anything is possible… Yeah Carissa! Yeah Bethany! Yeah to all the women who get out there and push themselves in whatever facet or venue that may be!! It always starts with one small step…

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